Monarch

Located just north of the Continental Divide mountain pass of the same name, Monarch is one of the highest elevation ski areas in North America. The resort is much smaller and more local than destinations along the I-70 corridor, and with a much longer travel time from Denver, it’s doubtful the mountain is even trying to attract that crowd. But Monarch is not exactly a “bare minimum” mountain, and if you happen to be in the local area, it shouldn’t be ruled out immediately.

With only a 730-acre footprint and an even more paltry 1,170-foot vertical drop, Monarch is dwarfed by every Rockies destination, and even some East Coast mountains. But across its modest extent, the resort offers a variety of trails—albeit short ones—for all abilities. Visitors ranging from beginner to advanced will find options here, as will experts with some hiking. A variety of regular trails and glades give Monarch some flavor, although despite its high base elevation, the resort has no lift-serviced bowl terrain. Perhaps the most unique aspect about Monarch is its views; the resort sits in one of the tallest areas in the Rockies, and vistas of surrounding ranges—many of which are more spectacular than Monarch itself—are omnipresent.

Monarch has the second-highest base elevation of any resort in North America, starting at a whopping 10,790 feet. This incredible height allows for outstanding snow preservation. Monarch’s snowfall is somewhat short of the top-tier Colorado resorts, but lower resort traffic results in powder stashes that last for days. That said, Monarch has absolutely no snowmaking, so the mountain can feel bare with below-average snowfall, especially during the early season. In addition, the remarkable altitude can be overwhelming for some.

Monarch is a solid place for beginners to learn. The mountain is especially good for early-stage progression, with a series of novice zones ranging from a small bunny hill, to a longer dedicated learning chair, to finally, regular green trails across most resort pods. Unlike many competitors, Monarch’s lift-serviced summit is actually accessible for beginners.

Intermediate terrain at Monarch gets the job done, but it’s nothing special. Blue trails mainly consist of groomed cruisers, with a small handful of glades near the top. The resort leaves some of its blue runs ungroomed, which may be useful for those who want to practice moguls. Monarch also has two terrain parks, but they’re also-ran compared to the destinations.

Monarch’s advanced terrain also isn’t anything to write home about, although it’s a bit more interesting than terrain for easier abilities. Across the footprint, a range of steep, ungroomed trails and glades exist. But Monarch’s meager vertical drop really hurts it as a contender for experienced skiers and riders, and none of its steep lift-serviced pitches last long enough to really be considered trying.

Monarch’s toughest and most technical terrain, which comprises almost a third of the resort, can only be accessed by hiking. The hike to Mirkwood—Monarch’s sole expert-oriented area—takes about 20 minutes, but it’s a gateway to some of the only truly distinctive terrain at the resort. Once in Mirkwood, guests will find a mix of short, steep bowls and demanding glades, some of which hide daunting rocks and cliff drops. Monarch also offers cat skiing just outside Mirkwood, but access is only available via guided tours that cost an arm and a leg.

One other quirk is that a small, seemingly innocuous below-treeline section of the mountain also requires hiking to get to. Due to idiosyncratic historical factors, Monarch’s intermediate Tele Alley and black-diamond Gunbarrel runs are not directly lift accessible, and getting to them involves an approximately five-minute uphill walk. Due to their northern exposure and the difficulty of reaching them, these trails often host the best snow conditions on the mountain.

Monarch is more than three hours away from Denver and way smaller than all the major Front Range resorts, meaning that destination-goers rarely make the trek to Monarch. But this gives this mountain an especially removed feel that’s hard to come by at any of those premium areas. Commercialization is essentially nonexistent, and the resort has minimal buildup on it. And with an incredibly local clientele, you won’t feel like your entire city relocated to the mountain.

But one key element that doesn’t always translate over to Monarch is a lack of lift lines. Despite a remote location, Monarch hosts an extensive ski school program that attracts just about everyone in the area on Saturdays during the core season. Monarch’s lifts are not very high-capacity, and the resort sees regular 20-minute waits throughout a typical Saturday. This can be very surprising if you book a trip to such a remote location with the intention of making repeat laps all day.

But Monarch’s lift system isn’t all bad. While every lift except Pioneer is a double chair, egress from the base is helped by four available lift options, and the mountain provides reasonable redundancy to many mountain pods. None of Monarch’s chairs are detachable, but the Pioneer lift runs at a slower speed to make it easier for beginners to load. In addition, lift lines are rarely a problem on Sundays, and essentially nonexistent on weekdays (although select lifts do not always operate during the week). It takes two lifts to reach the highest lift-serviced resort area, making the mountain feel taller than it really is.

As one might expect from a small, local mountain, on-mountain facilities are not a Monarch strong suit. Monarch only has one lodge at the base, and it’s a modest one with basic and overpriced food—although it does have a pretty solid patio with lawn chairs for spring days, as well as a decent bar. Once out of the base area, there’s a small food shack near the bottom of the Panorama lift, although it’s infrequently open.

Getting There

Monarch is more than three hours from downtown Denver, making the drive longer than all Summit and Eagle county competitors without traffic. However, Monarch is in a much less traveled area than those mountains, so it’s not subject to the same traffic snarls the resorts along the I-70 corridor are known for. The resort is also only less than an hour from the Gunnison regional airport, which directly services Denver, Dallas, and Houston. Getting to Monarch requires driving through some of the highest elevation roads in North America, and the access highway can close in heavy storm conditions.

Lodging

Monarch entirely lacks lodging on-site, but a series of options exist nearby. The closest accommodation, the Monarch Mountain Lodge, sits only a few minutes down from the resort; this no-frills hotel features a pool, hot tub, and built-in restaurant. The next closest options are half an hour away in the town of Salida; these include a number of hotels, inns, and hostels. Those looking for a reasonable accommodation should check out the Salida Hostel, which features surprisingly nice rooms and social vibes. The owners and staff are very friendly—and sometimes even bake for guests!

Aprés-ski

Aprés at Monarch is limited to day drinking at the bar, patio, and tailgates. But Salida is actually a pretty lively town on weekends, and friendly locals mean fun, social vibes. That said, Monarch and its surrounding areas are not tourist towns, and weekdays are pretty much dead no matter where you go.

Verdict

If you’re planning a major destination ski trip, Monarch is not a good option—it’s too small and underbuilt to provide a reasonable fly-to experience. But if you’re in the Salida area, Monarch is one of the best town hills out there thanks to strong snow preservation, unique tree skiing, and high-alpine, albeit hike-to, bowls. Lift tickets are reasonable for off-peak dates but outrageous for what you get on peak weekends and holidays, so if you decide Monarch is right for you, be sure to choose your dates carefully.