Brian Head

By Adam Nettina

With the highest base elevation of any ski resort in Utah, Brian Head has the distinction of also being the farthest resort from Salt Lake City—a fact that makes it almost empty during off-peak times. Not far from Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park, the mountain is visually stunning in a way you don’t often experience at ski resorts, offering vistas of red rock cliffs and expansive basins from the top of its main lift, the Giant Steps Express. 

Just because Brian Head is in the desert doesn’t mean it's wanting for snow. With more than 200 inches of annual snowfall a year, the resort bolsters impressive natural powder for its relatively southern location. This isn’t the Cottonwoods, but it’s more than enough for its size and location. Combined with an extremely quiet footprint during non-peak times, and you’re looking at relatively fresh powder on off-tracked black runs even 3-4 days after a storm. Just be aware that it does get warm here, meaning refreezing, especially on groomed runs, can create icy rides during early morning hours. 

Brian Head consists of two main areas: Giant Steps and Navajo, which connect over the main road through the town via a ski bridge. Each area is serviced by an express lift that takes about 5 minutes to ride. Kids and families will find Navajo appealing for its consistent green terrain set away from blues and blacks, as well as night skiing. In fact, as a beginner mountain, Navajo does a great job of keeping beginners in a confined area that also feels like an entire mountain to explore. There are a few groomed blue runs on the backside of Navajo that are accessible via the #1 Wildflower Lift, but these are shorter and easier than the intermediate runs off Giant Steps. That said, the backside of Navajo does remain relatively quiet even during peak times, making it an ideal area for skiers (especially kids) making the jump from beginner to intermediate runs.

Intermediate and advanced skiers will want to start—and stay—at Giant Steps, which offers both groomed intermediate speed runs and a mixture of ungroomed black chutes and gladded areas. The black-diamond Dark Hollow and Pillows runs offer enjoyable glade skiing through small and forgiving evergreens that are neither too dense nor open, while black diamonds Engens and Giant Steps remain relatively free of skiers even during peak times. Backcountry access to cliffed chutes and ridges off the edge of Brian Head Peak (11,307’) is possible by hiking up from Giant Steps, but you’ll want to make sure the #5 Lift is operational in order to optimally work your way back to the mountain. 

For those who enjoy intermediate groomed skiing, Sunburst to Bear Paw keeps you moving, while Hunter’s Run and Ed’s Shortcut give visitors a chance to access lightly gladed areas and small cliffs from the top of Giant Steps. Be aware that blue runs off Giant Steps do crowd during peak times, meaning you’ll want to focus your first few runs of the day here if you really want to churn and burn. 

One thing you’ll notice immediately is that Brian Head isn’t exactly expansive—the mountain is just 650 acres with its longest run coming in at 0.6 miles. For comparison, this is smaller than both Brighton and Solitude by at least a few hundred acres. In addition, the mountain’s vertical drop is paltry, at just 1,320’ from top to bottom—this means the resort is set up for quick laps, rather than endurance runs. This setup doesn’t present many logistical problems on weekdays and off-peak times, where lift waits are nonexistent, but it does lead to crowding at peak times and particularly Saturdays. This remains a persistent issue and leads to 10-15 minute wait times at the express lifts. 

Brian Head is somewhat susceptible to high winds throughout the season, and some of its lifts, particularly #5 Roulette and #7 The Dunes, can see shutdowns under these circumstances. When these helper lifts are down, the crowding just gets worse at the other Giant Steps lifts. Wait times can even build up to 15-20 minutes on Giant Steps Express, while crowding also becomes an issue at the top of the lift. Still, even during peak times, advanced skiers will have no problem with crowding once they get off the lifts and onto the trails. For instance, Engens remains relatively untouched on Saturdays, even when multiple lifts are down. For whatever reason—perhaps its family-friendly atmosphere—Brian Head does not attract a majority-advanced crowd during peak times. 

It is worth stating that Brian Head opens later than most resorts, with the first lifts not starting until 9:30 am. While 30 minutes doesn’t seem like a big deal, for early birds it could mean the difference between a few pristine, relatively isolated runs on weekends and having to fight through skier traffic during peak hours. 

Brian Head’s 9,600’ base elevation allows it to offer high-quality snow for its latitude. However, this also means the air is much thinner than in the nearby cities of Las Vegas and Salt Lake City—and even the bases of even most of the resort’s northern Utah competitors. As a result, those susceptible to elevation sickness may not find Brian Head to be the best choice, especially if staying overnight.

Overall, Brian Head isn’t hard to navigate, with clear signage for runs, including those that direct visitors to the easiest way down. As with many resorts, however, gladed areas aren’t clearly marked as runs, which means visitors will have to exercise extra awareness to filter back to lifts. That said, the relatively small size of the resort makes it easy to keep everything in front of you even when it’s unclear which run you’re actually on. 

Brian Head isn’t a truly independent resort—it’s owned by Mountain Capital Partners—but it does have an independent feel that’s both family-friendly but also a bit unlike other Utah resorts. A small “town” is accessible from the slopes, complete with a pizza restaurant, Mexican restaurant, and coffee shop just five minutes from the lift. One downside—there are no food or drink concessions above the bases. 

Lift tickets vary in price by the weekend, but range from the mid $50s on weekdays to the $120s on holiday weekends. Still, considering some weekends in March feature lift tickets as low as $59 online, it’s indisputable that Brian Head is one of the most affordable Utah ski resorts if you plan your trip right.

Getting There

With no traffic, Brian Head is about three-and-a-half hours from Salt Lake City and three hours from Las Vegas—a fact apparent by the amount of Raiders and Golden Knights gear on the slopes. While the resort is serviced by a single lane road running up through Parowan and the canyon, traffic flows smoothly even on peak days, a testament to modest day trip crowds. 

There is plenty of parking for day guests at both the Giant Steps Lodge and the Navajo Lodge, while free shuttles run throughout the town’s lodges to deliver guests to the slopes. Just be aware the road to Cedar Breaks National Monument, just a few miles up from the town, is closed during the winter and not plowed. You’lll have to bushwhack it over snow drifts and against biting winds to get a view of this impressive canyon.

Lodging

Despite the smaller acreage than many other Utah resorts, Brian Head offers an impressive list of lodges and rental properties, some with special offers for skiers and snowboarders. The Brian Head Lodge in particular runs a special to stay free the night before you hit the slopes, offering stays at 3-star rooms plus a lift ticket for just $150 on weekends. With two restaurants on site, a pool, fitness center, and spa, it makes for a comfortable base for a long weekend. Additional 3-star rooms can be booked at the Cedar Breaks Lodge, which is within walking distance of the Navajo ski area and boasts an on-site pool and spa.

Several prominent hotel chains also offer rooms in Cedar City, which is about 45 minutes away.

Aprés-ski

Despite its proximity to Vegas, Brian Head remains more on the family side. Last Chair Grill, right off the Giant Steps Lodge, offers a dive bar vibe with 17 different beers on tap. Expect prices lower than Snowbird but higher than your neighborhood bar. Back at the Brian Head Lodge, the Lift Bar and Patio serves food and drinks until 10pm. There is signage banning alcohol from lifts and lift lines, but guests will find very little problem drinking their own beverages slopeside.

Verdict

Brian Head isn’t going to blow you away with its size or the difficulty of its runs, but as one of the few “desert” ski resorts in the country, it offers one-of-a-kind breathtaking views and an enjoyable footprint of higher-level intermediate terrain. Still, the remoteness of the resort makes it impractical for just a day trip, while its relatively small skiable area leaves little left to be explored after a full day. That said, it makes an intriguing option as a book-end for a weeklong trip that starts in Salt Lake and ends in Vegas, and a great place to experience powder days in isolation during non-peak times.